A is for Argentina: Part 2 - Córdoba

Córdoba Cathedral

Previous: Part 1 - Buenos Aires

After spending more than a week in lovely Buenos Aires, I made my way to the northeast of the country. Córdoba is a major city that lies between BA and Salta, my destination. To avoid a straight 20+ hours bus ride, I decided to take a short break at Córdoba.

Plaza San Martin, Córdoba

I arrived at the sleepy town at 6 in the morning after a 10 hours ride in a Suite class bus from Buenos Aires. The bus ride was great, not only the seats are like business class travel - wide 180 degree reclining - we also get served meals and drinks. Almost all Argentinian long distance buses are double-decker equipped with an on board toilet on the lower deck, TVs, heating and a host who looks after the passengers.

The buses usually come in three classes, Suite (180 degree reclining seat, available only for major cities), Cama (150 degree reclining seat) and Semi Cama (smaller seat with no service). It was the most comfortable long distance bus ride I've experienced.

Hotel Sussex

I also learned an important lesson from this trip, it was to always check for available accommodation before arrival! Without having a pre-book accommodation, I decided to check out this hotel which I received its leaflet at the bus stop from a lady who was distributing them, I thought it should be available if it's advertising itself at the bus station, right?

Well, after a 15 minutes taxi ride across town, I found to my dismay that it is fully booked. I was tired, cold and hungry, I just want to lay my backpack down and get some decent rest as I couldn't sleep a wink from the excitement of seeing the countryside.

Since there weren't any accommodation nearby, and the taxi which dropped me off has left, I had to walk to the nearest available accommodation according to my map. As I walked alone in the cold dark Winter morning, the city slowly came alive with early morning traffic, it did not distract me from feeling panicky because I have not passed any hotels after a 40 minutes trek.

Just when I was almost in tears from this ordeal, suddenly the word Hotel Sussex appeared in the horizon like a mirage. I rushed toward its direction to find a Spanish colonial type building; despite its rough exterior and equally as not so fancy interior, I decided I cannot walk any longer so I got myself a room and collapsed on the bed.

I told myself to always check for availability before arriving in a new place and I have never been caught short in the same situation since, well at least not in Argentina!

Iglesia de Santa Teresa

Córdoba is a university town with lots of young people and also lots of colonial architecture such as historical monuments, cathedrals and Jesuit blocks. Most look grand from a distance but close up you will notice they all desperately needed a face lift, like many other colonial buildings in Argentina.

There were not much to do in Córdoba unless you are a colonial architecture buff. It was especially boring on the Sunday when I was walking around trying to kill time before my night bus to Salta, the usually crowded pedestrian mall was eerily quiet, I thought maybe Lonely Planet was right about Córdoba being the most Catholic city in Argentina...

Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesús

I managed to find the key to the puzzle when I stumbled into a city mall, cleverly converted from a colonial building, it seems everyone in Córdoba who's over 15 and under 35 were there. Córdoba was nice, but I was happy to jump on the bus to Salta.

Next: Part 3 - Salta