B is for Bolivia: Part 5 - World Highest Everything

Piper posing at Ville de la Luna, La Paz

Previous: Part 4 - Road to Potosi

For once in this trip, I've decided to treat myself by buying a plane ticket from Sucre to La Paz. Sucre, Bolivia's constitutional capital, is the closest airport I can get to from Potosí and to complete this experience, I also hired a taxi to get me to Sucre.

The taxi should take 2 hours instead of 4 in a bus, the ride cost BOB160 (BOB7 = USD1, BOB = Bolivianos) and I was willing to pay that just to avoid the bus. The taxi picked me up at 10am, right on time, and the driver was driving like an F1-nabe but he was steady at the wheels so I felt safe even though the road was winding - the road by the way was paved, hurray!

At our snack stop half way before Sucre, my driver told me, Sucre no es pasa... My Spanish was not good enough to fully understand what he was trying to tell me and for 10 minutes I can only focus on the words I know, Sucre + No... Surely they cant block off the ONLY road from Potosí to Sucre, no government would do that, right?

Not in Bolivia!

Stuck!

The road was indeed blocked off! All because of a motor rally! Unsurprisingly, my petrol-head driver got very excited, he asked me to stay in the car while he ran off to watch the show. Fortunately for me, the rally ended an hour earlier at 3pm, I was able to hold off an extra 3 hours on food and water rationing (so I can avoid the stinky baño publico, public toilets) till we get into Sucre. Later, I learn that road blocks are common in Bolivia, for my remaining time there I always ensure I have enough food and water with me.

The flight to La Paz was delayed for one hour, but it was ok, this is Bolivia. While in the air, the scenery on terra firma was beautiful; I could see isolated Andean communities in the middle of nowhere, on top of a mountain range and the roads leading to these villages are narrow and winding, like a serpent. From a distance, I could also the see biggest salt lake in the world, Salar de Uyuni, it was white as snow but flat as, er, a lake.

La Paz with Mt Illimani at the background

La Paz is a city of 1.5 millions, it lies on a small valley surrounded by rather steep hills. These hills caught my attention because they are covered by countless square dwellings - most are made of brown bricks and it seems that the dwellers didn't bother painting their houses, the dwellings have the same colour as the land, which is fascinating. As a result, the slopes around La Paz appeared square-ish from a distance.

Public transports in downtown La Paz

La Paz is also a city that is full with drivers that like to toot their horns and awful smelling fume puff out of the many public transports sprawling around the city; its streets are very steep, I wonder what do they know when they say the world's steepest street is in Dunedin (New Zealand), I say come to La Paz!

Mercado de las Brujas, La Paz

Part of the city is quite charming, especially the area around Mercado de las Brujas (Witches Market). There, you can see dried up llamas foetuses on sale for a spell, candies for offering to the Pachamama (Earth Mother), and various magic potions which I didn't bother finding out about. The "witches" also sell touristy items such as ceramics, beanies, beads, bright colours weaving, belts, water bottle holders, dolls, bags, hammocks, ponchos, jerseys, and silver jewelries. The Aymara ladies that tend the stores were friendly, they always address me as amiga (friend). Friend... I like it.

Crossing the Estrecho de Tiquina, Lake Titicaca

The bus journey from La Paz to the lakeside town of Copacabana (the one in Rio copied its name) by Lake Titicaca, took 4 hours even though it doesn't look far from a map. At one point, our bus has to go on a barge in order to cross the lake from one side of the road to the other, just to reach Copacabana. We humans have to buy ticket to get across on separate boats. The lake was brilliant blue and the snow caped Andes made a nice backdrop. It is huge, I couldn't see the other end, which lies Perú, from where I stood.

Isla de Sol, Lake Titicaca

The return bus journey left Copacabana at 6pm, the sun set soon after and darkness fell, I could see stars glittering brilliantly in the night sky. The bus ride was freezing cold, they either can't afford heating or don't believe in it. After 4 hours, I was glad to be back in the hotel standing under a hot shower, not to mention a much needed visit to the baño. Now I know why the local ladies always carry a blanket-like wrap with them like a fashion statement!

I've broken my world highest everything record by just visiting Bolivia:

• World highest Capital city - La Paz, 3660m above sea level
• World highest lake - Titicaca, 3800m
• World highest island - Isla del Sol (Sun Island), with a peak of 4076m - The Incas believed this is the birthplace of the sun.
• World highest city - Potosí, 4090m

To give you an idea: Mt Kilimanjaro of Tanzania is 5882m, Mt Kinabalu of Malaysia is 4095m and Aoraki/Mt Cook of New Zealand is 3755m. In a way, I appreciate that I could just jump into a bus to reach these heights without too much of a hassle.

Christopher Colombus statue, La Paz

(Cristoforo Colombo, 12 Ottobre 1492, Navigare necesse est vivere non necesse, it is necessary to sail, it is not necessary to live)

Travelling in Bolivia was a photographer's dream and definitely quite challenging for me - from battling altitude sickness, surviving dust buses, dealing with delays, eating llama tongue (yuck), basically everything that tested my senses and patience, without a doubt it is not a place I will forget in a hurry.

Next: Part 6 - Region XV & Region I

B is for Bolivia: Part 4 - The Road to Potosí

Cerro Rico (Rich Mountain), Potosí

Previous: Part 3 - Salta

My journey to the Argentine border town of La Quiaca began very early in the morning from Salta at 6am. I needed to give myself plenty of travelling time to reach Tupiza so that I wouldn't get stuck at Villazón, the Bolivian border town known for seediness, so an early morning start it was. La Quiaca was a 6 hours bus ride through magnificent mountain views and dusty Amerindian towns, the journey was a joy but when the bus finally stopped, my nightmare begun.

As soon as I arrived, I realised that in order to get to the border post, I had to walk from the bus terminal, which is about 1km. Without proper signage on where the border is, I had to ask, in my crappy Spanish, donde esta Bolivia? (where is Bolivia) and the locals would point to the correct direction. In that fashion, I checked out of my beloved Argentina, on an unimpressive concrete bridge and farewelled by handsome and flirtatious border guards.

Argentine and Bolivian border, view from La Quiaca

I walked into Bolivia feeling the glares of stern faces, two border guards even went through my passport page by page, as if admiring the number of stamps I've accumulated. Fortunately the rumoured fee was not mentioned, my passport was stamped and welcome to Bolivia!

Villazón is a typical border town with many shop outlets, hawkers, and people just hanging around the streets, here I saw many Bolivian ladies in their traditional outfit - bowler hat, big and bulky looking umbrella skirt, thick brown stockings, black platform-less/open toes shoes, and some with colourful aprons. Many ladies also carried their child wrapped in colourful rug looking material that tied around their shoulders. After changing my Pesos into Bolivianos and 2 hours waiting around, I was ready to get on my bus to Tupiza.

El Dusto bus ride from Villazón to Tupiza

The bus ride was a nightmare, and unbeknown to me, Bolivian roads are a nightmare in the south-west, it is gravel all the way! The vehicle I travelled on was old, possibly an ex-Greyhound bus that has seen its heyday in the US back in the 50s, another reminder I had arrived in Bolivia, there is no such thing as Cama or Semi Cama nonsense here.

The locals all scrambled aboard way before the bus starts and have a habit of leaving their luggage or bags on the aisle, they also like to wait patiently by the exit at least 5 minutes before their stops, often leaning against the passengers seated by the exit for balance. I was seated closest to the exit for the first half of the ride...

Bus ticket booth, Tupiza

The bus journey can only be described as dusty - dirt flew into the bus through the open windows from the gravel road, sand coloured adobe villages along the way looked like chalk work, even the sign post showing Evo Cumple (Evo Fulfills) were partially covered in dust.

To add to my discomfort, most locals has an unpleasant body odour, it was especially unpleasant when their behinds were in my face as they bent over to pick up their luggage. At the end of the journey, I was covered in dust, my bags are covered in dust, there was dust in my hair, in my eyes (contact lens wearers be warned), in my ears, in my nose, everywhere! I was totally exhausted from the bumpy ride and was so happy when I finally took a hot shower.

I've also learn an important lesson to never take the seats closest to the exit in a Bolivian bus!

Downtown Tupiza

Tupiza is another dusty Bolivian town with few unimpressive buildings, the most notable historical event was that Butch Cassidy and the Sundance kid were gunned down in the nearby mine they were robbing. Most travellers used Tupiza as an overnight pit stop to go on to Uyuni (to see the giant salt lake) or onto Potosí, like myself. The bus ride the next morning from Tupiza to Potosí took 8 hours, 7 were on gravel road. I have never been so dusty and uncomfortable in my life till travelling on a bus in Bolivia, many times I wished I could beam myself to the destination.

Casa de Moneda, Potosí Mint

Potosí is the highest city in the world at 4,090 meters above sea level, it also made walking a challenge when suffering altitude sickness, I felt like I have walked up 5-storeys after just walking about 100 meters. Minerally rich, Potosí was the richest city in the world in the 1600s, but the silver ran out in the 1800s resulting in its decline.

Balcony, Potosí

Today, the once impressive colonial buildings are slowly deteriorating, it was still possible to admire the craftsmanship of centuries long gone walking on its cobble stone alleys. Unfortunately the Bolivian drivers are fond of tooting their horns at every corner, creating a sense of chaos in an otherwise tranquil town.

Up to this point, I've found the people are not as friendly comparing to the Argentinians, perhaps the Amerindian's hook nose and stern eyes doesn't seem as friendly. Instead of the friendly smiles I got so used to in Argentina, I got stared at often in Bolivia, maybe I was as exotic to them as they were to me!

Next: Part 5 - World's Highest Everything

A is for Argentina: Part 3 - Salta

Quebrada del Toro, Salta

Previous: Part 2 - Córdoba

I arrived in Salta in a similar fashion to my arrival in Córdoba, that is, comfortable long distance bus ride which arrives at the destination very early in the morning - this will soon be the ritual of my travel throughout my South American journey.

View of Salta from cable car

Only this time I was very well looked after by the bus attendant with the look of classical Latino film star, whom I think, took a shining to me. The attendant made sure I ate all my food, drank my share of soda, wrapped up adequately in the bus blanket when resting, and he even woke me by gently stroking my cheek for breakfast in the morning. Talk about all round service!

Salar de Olaroz, Jujuy

Quechua ladies

Located in the north-west of Argentina, Salta is closer to the Equator comparing to the rest of the country; position wise it should be warmer but having situated at 1,152 meters above sea level on the foothills of the Andes, its air was freezing cold on the early Winter morning of my arrival.

Like the climate and terrain, the Argentinian faces also changes in Salta. There are more Amerindian population and people are generally darker, but they still attain an air of sophistication and slight snobbishness which I delightedly find in an Argentine.

Adobe house, near San Antonio de Los Cobres

For a day's trip, I visited a little Amerindian town called San Antonio de los Cobres, located at 3,750 meters above sea level and a 3 hours drive from Salta on dusty gravel road. The town used to be an important route for silver from the Bolivian town of Potosí to be transported, using mules, to the Pacific coast of Arica in Chile. With a population of approximately 4,300, its inhabitants now depends on tourism, llama or sheep farming and mining as a mean of livelihood.

Viaduct La Polvorilla

The famous Train to the Clouds ran from Salta to San Antonio de los Cobres, where the world's highest railway bridge is (I think, at 64m, see picture). During my visit, the company that operate the train has gone bankrupt and the tourism authority talked about resurrecting the service again. I didn't see any clouds so I guess the train is not going!

Next: Part 4 - The Road to Potosí

A is for Argentina: Part 2 - Córdoba

Córdoba Cathedral

Previous: Part 1 - Buenos Aires

After spending more than a week in lovely Buenos Aires, I made my way to the northeast of the country. Córdoba is a major city that lies between BA and Salta, my destination. To avoid a straight 20+ hours bus ride, I decided to take a short break at Córdoba.

Plaza San Martin, Córdoba

I arrived at the sleepy town at 6 in the morning after a 10 hours ride in a Suite class bus from Buenos Aires. The bus ride was great, not only the seats are like business class travel - wide 180 degree reclining - we also get served meals and drinks. Almost all Argentinian long distance buses are double-decker equipped with an on board toilet on the lower deck, TVs, heating and a host who looks after the passengers.

The buses usually come in three classes, Suite (180 degree reclining seat, available only for major cities), Cama (150 degree reclining seat) and Semi Cama (smaller seat with no service). It was the most comfortable long distance bus ride I've experienced.

Hotel Sussex

I also learned an important lesson from this trip, it was to always check for available accommodation before arrival! Without having a pre-book accommodation, I decided to check out this hotel which I received its leaflet at the bus stop from a lady who was distributing them, I thought it should be available if it's advertising itself at the bus station, right?

Well, after a 15 minutes taxi ride across town, I found to my dismay that it is fully booked. I was tired, cold and hungry, I just want to lay my backpack down and get some decent rest as I couldn't sleep a wink from the excitement of seeing the countryside.

Since there weren't any accommodation nearby, and the taxi which dropped me off has left, I had to walk to the nearest available accommodation according to my map. As I walked alone in the cold dark Winter morning, the city slowly came alive with early morning traffic, it did not distract me from feeling panicky because I have not passed any hotels after a 40 minutes trek.

Just when I was almost in tears from this ordeal, suddenly the word Hotel Sussex appeared in the horizon like a mirage. I rushed toward its direction to find a Spanish colonial type building; despite its rough exterior and equally as not so fancy interior, I decided I cannot walk any longer so I got myself a room and collapsed on the bed.

I told myself to always check for availability before arriving in a new place and I have never been caught short in the same situation since, well at least not in Argentina!

Iglesia de Santa Teresa

Córdoba is a university town with lots of young people and also lots of colonial architecture such as historical monuments, cathedrals and Jesuit blocks. Most look grand from a distance but close up you will notice they all desperately needed a face lift, like many other colonial buildings in Argentina.

There were not much to do in Córdoba unless you are a colonial architecture buff. It was especially boring on the Sunday when I was walking around trying to kill time before my night bus to Salta, the usually crowded pedestrian mall was eerily quiet, I thought maybe Lonely Planet was right about Córdoba being the most Catholic city in Argentina...

Iglesia de la Compañia de Jesús

I managed to find the key to the puzzle when I stumbled into a city mall, cleverly converted from a colonial building, it seems everyone in Córdoba who's over 15 and under 35 were there. Córdoba was nice, but I was happy to jump on the bus to Salta.

Next: Part 3 - Salta